Hi forum, wondering if any has an idea of what might be happening with my PV10? My wife decided to fire up the system at a house party recently - why, who knows as she's never done it before (too much wine). She swears she only pressed the Tape Monitor button when powering up! Anyway, we were not able to play music and had to move on to a beatbox.
Now I've had a chance to look at everything, the pre-amp doesn't warm up. When you first plug it in and press power on there is a brief attempt to light inside and then nothing. It does continue to hum and the red power button will stay on. I have not tried to remove the cover at all so not sure what is trying to light, I've tried to attach a before/after picture below. Left of picture being the unit front. I'm guessing the third picture shows the elements that are lighting but not sure what they are called. It will only attempt that internal light up once and then you need to unplug and leave for a while before it will repeat the attempt.
I'm hoping it's an internal fuse but would love any input. I am out in the sticks a bit (north of Scotland) so will need ship off for any repairs. And as you can tell I am not technically adept.
Cheers.
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Hard to say. I would take the cover off, inspect all the fuses, look for obvious signs of damage like burn marks or bulging caps. Let us know what you find.
-admin Home Theater in Member Gallery Main stereo: ART Amplifier and ET7s2. 2nd stereo: PV-14L and MV-55. Previously Owned: PF2 preamp, Evolution 2000 Amp, PV-12AL preamp, D/A-2b Vacuum-Tube Digital Processor.
I agree, I don't see how pressing any button on the unit would cause damage.
-admin Home Theater in Member Gallery Main stereo: ART Amplifier and ET7s2. 2nd stereo: PV-14L and MV-55. Previously Owned: PF2 preamp, Evolution 2000 Amp, PV-12AL preamp, D/A-2b Vacuum-Tube Digital Processor.
The other thing is that the comment “it does continue to hum” bugs me. An up to snuff PV10AL should not noticeably hum, so after 25+ years, maybe there are some issues.
From the owners manual, it appears that there is just one fuse, and if it were blown, the unit would not power up. My money is on the bad relay.
There must be a CJ distributor in the UK. Ring them up.
The super low hanging fruit is to just replace the tubes. I think that model uses a pair of 12AU7s.
And last, be sure the tape loop is not on. If the signal is directed to monitor a nonexistent tape deck, you will be rewarded with silence. Of course you knew that.
It’s just stuff. I like mine. I hope you like yours. I probably like yours too.
Thanks everyone, yes I'll call the local distributor in the UK and also check under the hood myself. Will let you know if I find out anything that can help someone else.
If it's the PV10AL then, yep, it uses 2 12AU7 tubes but if it includes the phonostage (the PV10A) then it also has a 12AT7 and a pair of 12AX7. Removing the cover may reveal if it's a bad tube or tubes. And as admin pointed out you can do a visual inspection while you're at it. I also found that keeping the screws (there's 14 of them if I remember right) in the same pattern as they were when you take them out made reassembling the cover that much easier. They seem to like being put back in their original spots.
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Hola,
I might have bad news to you. You have to check if the filament of the tubes lit. If they don't lit, you might have a power transformer issue. That's very common failure here in Costa Rica. Also if they do lit, then there is a regulator voltage, a TO3 case transistor. This regulator is the one that feeds the voltage for the relays. These relays are for prevent transients during the power. They have a kind of timer, about 45 seconds and they trigger on to able to listen.
It is better to find a good electronic workshop or your dealer might recommend what to do.
ML CLX BF-210 Stage X Motion 4. CJ 120SE amp ET7V2 pre, Holo May Kte Dac. Mac Pro. Power Cond. BPT Signature+ 3.5, Gaia II Feet. USB Lush^V3. Nordost SPM IC and Spk. Shun Mook, BCanto CD2 CD3. Linn LP-12/Unitrack tonearm/Denon DL103R MC.
I really think that your poor wife was a victim of circumstances, unlucky to be the one whose attempt to turn it on was after the first manifestation of the failure.
It’s just stuff. I like mine. I hope you like yours. I probably like yours too.
There is no way to abuse a preamp. Power on, then listen a high level, the preamp only is sending to the amplifier the signal, there is no way how to produce a failure. She only got the jack pot, not because the preamp was abused. Switching tape monitor, or aux to tuner or any switching combination will not harm the preamp...she is innocent.
ML CLX BF-210 Stage X Motion 4. CJ 120SE amp ET7V2 pre, Holo May Kte Dac. Mac Pro. Power Cond. BPT Signature+ 3.5, Gaia II Feet. USB Lush^V3. Nordost SPM IC and Spk. Shun Mook, BCanto CD2 CD3. Linn LP-12/Unitrack tonearm/Denon DL103R MC.
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ML CLX BF-210 Stage X Motion 4. CJ 120SE amp ET7V2 pre, Holo May Kte Dac. Mac Pro. Power Cond. BPT Signature+ 3.5, Gaia II Feet. USB Lush^V3. Nordost SPM IC and Spk. Shun Mook, BCanto CD2 CD3. Linn LP-12/Unitrack tonearm/Denon DL103R MC.
Hey all, sorry I have not posted this before now - I have to eat a big slice of humble pie (at home also)!
So the upshot was nothing to do with the PV-10. My wife had pressed the input selector button on the Chord Qutest, thinking it would turn it on. If you're familiar it has two colored light buttons as the user interface. As I never touch those, except maybe the filter button on the left-hand side of the two, I didn't notice that the input color had changed. Obviously a lesson would have been to go back through the input chain first, before peeling the cover off the pre-amp. Also - my naivety that maybe someone else can learn from - the tubes don't light up like Christmas tree lights! So when I was seeing a flash and then nothing it was obviously an initial power up and then calmed down into operational state.
Sounds lame but there you have it. Thanks for all the help and maybe someone else will find this useful, down the road. Or I am going to be remembered as the dumbest poster on this forum. lol
Hey, no worries. We have a saying here in Costa Rica: "S" happens!
The good thing is that you have your great CJ sound back again. Enjoy the music!
Happy listening!
ML CLX BF-210 Stage X Motion 4. CJ 120SE amp ET7V2 pre, Holo May Kte Dac. Mac Pro. Power Cond. BPT Signature+ 3.5, Gaia II Feet. USB Lush^V3. Nordost SPM IC and Spk. Shun Mook, BCanto CD2 CD3. Linn LP-12/Unitrack tonearm/Denon DL103R MC.
Glad it worked itself out. I remember one time I put a new component in my system so had to disconnect and reconnect my RCA cables. I turned the stereo on and for 25 minutes couldn't figure out why I was not getting any sound as I plugged everything back "exactly as I had before." I really thought something was wrong with my preamp and I was about to pull it out and look at the inside to troubleshoot. Turned out I put the input RCA connectors into another slot by accident so the input selector was now set to an empty RCA input....
Kind of learned that if there is something not working, start at the source and work your way down the chain and at each step of the way ask "what are ALL the possibilities at this stage that could be causing the problem?
-admin Home Theater in Member Gallery Main stereo: ART Amplifier and ET7s2. 2nd stereo: PV-14L and MV-55. Previously Owned: PF2 preamp, Evolution 2000 Amp, PV-12AL preamp, D/A-2b Vacuum-Tube Digital Processor.
